A BETTER CLEAN

Agents for "EXTERMINANT" The NO SPRAY ANT KILLER that REALLY WORKS

                                        PEST CONTROL

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

General information for most of our Pest Control Services are on this page in alphabetical order. Prices may change without notice on this site. Please confirm when booking. Out of town jobs may incur vehicle expenses and travel time.

Scroll down the page to view the various pest treatments.....

                                ANTS

The Main Treatment  

There?s a few methods we have for treating ants but our first line of attack is usually the no-spray treatment using EXTERMINANT, which is specially formulated for professional use. It?s applied outside of the building in order to attract ants from inside. It kills off ants at their source, the nest. Some peoples ants have been so bad that they were even in the fridge, and yet this treatment dealt to them.

There are several benefits to using the EXTERMINANT treatment as against the conventional methods using sprays.

One, is that we find the spray to be no where near as good as EXTERMINANT. Also, if you went for a spray treatment, you would have the job of having to empty all your cupboards and drawers, move furniture, and all sorts of stuff like that, whereas EXTERMINANT avoids that hassle. You don?t even have to be at home to let us in with this treatment, and if you are at home you don?t have to get outside for a few hours during and after spraying. And spray only kills the ants that actually walk on it. That means that the queen can keep on pumping out eggs at a rapid rate. So you?d have dead ants around the place, but never actually kill off the nest. Another thing that research has shown is that sprays can stress ants and do you know what ants do when they?re stressed? They make more queens and split the nest and so make the problem even worse.

ANYWAY...The EXTERMINANT treatment is usually so effective that most people don't need to have anything done on the inside. It?s only about 3% of jobs that may have us come back and do some more specialised work inside. This may require us to remove power points or light switches so we can pump dry insecticide or gas inside the walls to get them. But this is hardly ever necessary so we advise to start with the EXTERMINANT treatment first as it can save the added expense of using sprays, gas and so on.

There is one thing that you may need to do with EXTERMINANT. After the ants have been killed off, it would pay to wash off any of the sticky residue that isn?t exposed to the rain as it can attract dust and look unsightly. And if you left it on the walls for a few months it may even go mouldy and need some bleach to clean it off.

Now, part of our job as Pest Controllers is to help you prevent ants getting back into your place after we?ve killed off those that are already there. Did you know that ants are like territorial creatures? If you wipe out one colony, very soon another will try and take its? place. To help avoid that problem, after we?ve finished treating the outside of the building, we give you a litre of EXTERMINANT so that every now and then when you?re outside, if you ever spot a trail of ants, all you have to do is dip a paint brush in EXTERMINANT and paint a square metre of it right by their trail, and you?ll usually kill off the whole nest within a couple of days.

The cost of this treatment is usually $240 for an average 3 Bedroom house. Some can be more.

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THOROUGH INSIDE SPRAY TREATMENT

This takes a lot of work on your behalf before we arrive. You need to empty every cupboard and drawer in your kitchen and pantry. This includes the pot cupboard and the cutlery drawer. The best place to put all this stuff is usually on and under the dining table & throw a sheet over the top of it.  

  All the drawers and cupboards should then be washed before treatment as you don?t want to be washing these afterwards or you?ll remove the treatment.

Then you need to empty the laundry and bathroom cupboards, the hallway and hot water cupboards, all the wardrobes (throw everything onto the beds).

Then pull all the furniture in the house out from the walls so that we can treat all the ceilings, the walls, the skirtings, every nook and cranny we can find and every where in the kitchen.

Theres to be no pets or people inside for about 4 hours and when you come back inside you will have the job of putting everything back into place, and cleaning the food preparation benches before any uncovered food is placed directly onto them.

Don?t wash down any areas that won't have uncovered food placed on them. That would clean off the treatment which will usually continue to work for several months.

This treatment has the benefit of also killing spiders and flies but you must remember one thing about it. It only kills the ants that actually walk on it and doesn't deal to the root of the problem back at the nest where the queen is pumping out eggs at a rapid rate. This could mean that you've always got dead ants around the place but never actually wiped them out.

The cost of this treatment is usually $300 for an average 3 bedroom house.

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SEMI - THOROUGH INSIDE SPRAY TREATMENT

We could do a real thorough treatment like I've just mentioned but only in the kitchen, Lounge and dining areas. The cost of this treatment is usually $200.  

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NO HASSLE SPRAY TREATMENT

You don't have to empty any cupboards or move all the furniture. We will spray treat all the ceilings, walls and skirtings that are accessible without moving furniture around. We don't treat inside the kitchen cupboards and drawers with this treatment. This would kill most insects crawling over it for at least 3 months under normal conditions. This treatment has the benefit of also killing spiders and flies but you must remember one thing about it. It only kills the ants that actually walk on it and doesn't deal to the root of the problem back at the nest where the queen is pumping out eggs at a rapid rate. This could mean that you've always got dead ants around the place but never actually wiped them out. 

  The cost of this treatment is usually $115

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SPECIALISED ANT CONTROL

If you?ve seen them coming out of holes or cracks in the walls, we might have to remove power points or light fittings in order to treat inside the walls. Sometimes people have got ants in places where sprays and powders can?t be used, like in video cases, books or computers. What we can do in these situations is to have all these items placed in large plastic rubbish sacks and fill them up with insect gas. Leave them for a day or two in the bags and that?ll kill any insects in there.

The cost of this depends on the degree of expertise and the time and insecticide used. Usually $100 - $150 for gassing plus $30 per power point if done on site with another job.

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 * For all Ant treatments, Maintain high standard of hygiene, especially in food areas. Ensure foodstuffs and provisions are stored in sealed containers.

** For all Spray treatments: Put food and toothbrushes away. Cover pillowcases and anything you do not want insecticide to be applied to.Pets and people outside for a few hours. Upon returning, ventilate the building, wipe down any areas subject to overspray, and clean all food preparation areas. Refrain from wiping other treated areas for at least 3 months. Place clean paper linings in all cupboards and drawers before returning items. Sweep or vacuum dead insects as they appear.

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FOR OUT OF TOWN JOBS THERE MAY BE VEHICLE EXPENSES AND TRAVEL TIME TO ADD TO JOB COST.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                             BED BUGS

To control them is not a simple task. Some establishments tried bombing infested units, only to find that they chased the Bed bugs into other units, making the problem even worse.

Thorough treatment is essential for Bed bug control and this can take quite a lot of preparation on your part before the Pest Control technicians arrive. All the bedding and linen should be packed into plastic bags and then removed from the infested room. It should all be given a hot wash, with disinfectant added to the washing water.

If the infested unit has kitchen facilities, you need to empty every cupboard and drawer in the kitchen and pantry. This includes the pot cupboard and the cutlery drawer. All the drawers and cupboards should then be washed before treatment as you don’t want to be washing these afterwards or you’ll remove the treatment.

Then pull all the furniture in the unit out from the walls so that we can treat all the ceilings, the walls, the skirtings, the curtains, the carpet, the furniture, every nook and cranny we can find and every where in the kitchen. It is also recommended that the carpet be cleaned before treatment.

If you’ve seen them coming out of holes or cracks in the walls, we might also have to remove power points or light fittings in order to treat inside the walls. This costs a bit extra. Likewise when Bed bugs are in places where sprays and powders can’t be used, like in video cases, books or computers. What we can do in these situations is to have all these items placed in large plastic rubbish sacks and fill them up with insect gas. Leave them for a day or two in the bags and that’ll kill any insects in there.

If possible, the guests’ belongings should be treated in order to prevent them from reinfesting other rooms you may move them to, or other establishments as they travel. To do this, we usually spread their belongings out in the infested room after we have finished treating it, and gas the room with Pyrethrum gas. We use this gas because it is not only organic, but is also non residual. This means that there should not be any insecticide residue on their clothing. If they were concerned about this, you should wash their clothes after they have been treated.

There’s to be no pets or people inside for about 4 hours and when you come back inside you will have the job of putting everything back into place, and cleaning the food preparation benches before any uncovered food is placed directly onto them.

Don’t wash down any areas that won’t have uncovered food placed on them. That would clean off the treatment which will usually continue to work for several months. That is really important because the treatment doesn’t kill the eggs, so when the eggs hatch you will want the young Bed bugs to walk on a treated surface and get killed.

This is a very thorough treatment which usually shows immediate results. It costs about $200 per average unit PLUS $100 to gas the guests’ belongings. A large dormitory would naturally cost more.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                                    BEES

Bees are not normally a pest unless they have their hive in the wall, eves, or ceiling of a building.

They sometimes have hives in trees too. Beekeepers used to collect the bees when they were swarming and settling in trees and easy to access places. Nowadays they don’t usually bother as there is too much trouble with bad brood and diseases. They often tell people to get us to exterminate them.

 We charge $100 to exterminate an average hive, more if it is in a very difficult place to access. If you are out of town and we have to make a special trip to do the job, we would charge kilometres and travel time also.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                                BORER

 

There are 2 main types of borer in this country. The common borer and the Two tooth (or long horned borer). The main borer we tend to come across is the Common Borer which  makes small round exit holes about the same size and shape as a pinhead and lives for up to 3 years in the timber. The Two-toothed borer makes much larger, oval-shaped holes and lives for up to 11 years in the timber. You won’t see an entry hole, only an exit hole. 

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 To treat borer effectively in a building, you really need to be considering some kind of renovating. Unless of course, the borer is only in the subfloor.

 There are a few different treatments we can use to treat borer. Some are more thorough and some cause less hassle than others.  

THOROUGH

                                                   

To treat borer in the ceiling cavity may take some work on your behalf before we arrive. The insulation needs to be removed before treatment. Access to cavity needs to be arranged or holes may need to be drilled to obtain access. These will need to be plastered over later. The treatment may discolour the ceiling, in which case it would need repainting (with oil-based paint). The treatment may leak from the ceiling and damage anything not protected below.

 If borer are in the walls, unless the wall linings have been removed, small holes (approx. 10 mm) need to be drilled between each nog so that a 360 degree sprayer can be inserted to treat the framing timber. These holes need to be plugged and painted or papered over. Excess spray inside the wall is likely to run out from the base plate and could have an adverse effect on the flooring material e.g. soak into carpet. Also, you need to ensure that electrical wiring is protected from being wet to prevent fuses shorting if spray was to interfere with wiring.

 For borer in the floor, there’s nothing special needing to be done unless you want both sides of the floor treated. If that were the case, you need to have all the floor coverings removed and if the floor is sealed, you need to have it sanded as the treatment will not penetrate a painted or polyurethaned surface. If only the underside of the floor is able to be treated, the topside may still be susceptible to infestation until the boric treatment has time to soak through to it.

 THE TREATMENT WE USE is a boric treatment called disodium octaborate tetrahydrate.

It is the latest and safest of the borer treatments available. Previously we used a synthetic pyrethroid with diesel or kerosene as the carrier. That is still an excellent treatment as it stays active in the timber for many years and is far superior to most water-based sprays which are only active for a few months. However, it did have the drawback of the odour which could be smelled for many weeks after treatment. Boric treatment however, is safe to use, virtually odourless, and we can warrant the treatment for 10 years provided the timber is kept dry.

ONE THING WE NEED TO HAVE AVAILABLE FOR BORIC TREATMENT IS HOT WATER. This is what the boric treatment needs to be dissolved in just before it’s sprayed onto the timber.

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Note. Painters have informed us that it is usually about 3 weeks after treatment before they are able to paint the treated surfaces and that oil-based paints must be used. 

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BORER PRICING

 1.     Up to 800 sq ft (approx 75 sq m)

          Subfloor                                                                                              $470.00

          Ceiling cavity                                                                                      $430.00

2.       Up to 1000 sq ft (approx 95 sq m)

          Subfloor                                                                                              $585.00

          Ceiling cavity                                                                                      $490.00

3.       Up to 1500 sq ft (approx 140 sq m)

           Subfloor                                                                                             $625.00

          Ceiling cavity                                                                                      $565.00

 4.      Up to 2000 sq ft (approx 185 sq m)

          Subfloor                                                                                              $665.00

          Ceiling cavity                                                                                      $635.00

 5.       Walls and Wall cavities:   Regardless of window and door space          $5.20 sq m.

 6.       Doors:         Minimum of 3.                                                     approx $30.00 each

 7.       Piano (upright): must be shifted by customer into garage.        $200.00

 8.       Average piece of furniture:  e.g. Wardrobe                                   $  80.00

 9.       Minimum Borer Charge:                                                                   $200.00

            Prices include G.S.T. but do not include travel expenses or any extras which may be required e.g. gaining access to "hard access areas"

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NO HASSLE SPRAY TREATMENT

This treatment is usually used for houses that have been moved, that the Council have requested a certificate for borer treatment, but don’t actually have borer. We have heard of several people being in this position over the years. They have had an old timber house moved onto their land and been told by Council to have the house professionally treated for borer, even though they don’t appear to have borer. So they have taken this much less expensive option with a treatment of synthetic pyrethroid with water as the carrier. With this treatment there is no need to remove the insulation or to drill any holes but the treatment is only warranted for 1 year so is not recommended for long-term protection for borer. ($500 for a whole house)

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NO-SPRAY, NO HASSLE TREATMENT

Go to your local hardware store, buy a borer bomb, let it off in the house and pretend all the borer are dead.

Seriously though, borer bombs are a waste of money and time. If you look at the fine print on the side of the can you will see that it says “for borer on the wing”. This means that it is only going to kill the borer that have come to adult stage, that have come out of the timber, and are present in the room where you let them off. They send a small amount of insecticide  throughout the room and when it settles there will be a small amount of powder residue on top of the timber. This offers a small amount of residual action for any adult borer that may fly in and land on top of the timber to lay eggs. It doesn’t affect any borer that doesn’t land on it and it has no effect on the borer which is dining on your timber. Remember that I said that the Common Borer lives for up to 3 years in the timber and the Two-toothed Borer for up to 11?

So a borer bomb is pretty much as much use as a can of fly spray for getting rid of borer inside your timber. If you’re serious about having borer treated there’s really only the thorough job or FUMIGATION TREATMENT.

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FUMIGATION TREATMENT

Fumigation treatment can be organised but that is really expensive and involves a heap of hassle. The fumigants used are so dangerous that Council approval has to be obtained and the Health Inspector has to oversee the job. A huge tent has to be erected over the house and perfectly sealed so as to keep all the gas in. Some fumigants destroy copper wiring and others can affect foam rubber so they may not be wise to use in your house. But the two main factors against fumigation would have to be the cost, which would be prohibitive to get all that done and the main thing against fumigation is that there is no residual effect. It may kill all the borer in your house this week, but nothing is left there to stop it being re-infested next spring. Whereas the boric treatment and the pyrethroid with diesel treatment keep borer at bay for many years.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                        CARPET BEETLE

 

If you've got Carpet Beetle let me take a guess here as to what type of carpet you have. Would it happen to be a light coloured wool carpet?       That’s their favourite. They do eat other carpets but for some reason they prefer the light coloured wool.

 There are a couple of methods we have for treating Carpet Beetle. One is a very thorough job which involves a lot of work and is not cheap. The other is more of a no-hassle job with the least expense.

THOROUGH

 Firstly, it is highly recommended that the carpet be cleaned before any insecticide is applied.

The cost of this would be dependant upon the type of cleaning method used and the areas to be treated, but for an average 3 bedroom home you could count on anything between $165 and $375. The carpet should not be cleaned after the treatment because it would remove the treatment, and that’s not a good idea.

 Secondly, all the furniture needs to be pulled out from the walls towards the centre of the room to gain access to the edges.

 Thirdly, the carpet has to be disconnected from the smoothedge so that the treatment can be applied to both sides of the carpet, both sides of the underlay and to the floorboards and smoothedge. This treatment is applied up to 1 metre from the edge of the carpet. Both we and other carpet layers have found them that far under the carpet and underlay that when we’ve uplifted carpets. This cost is around $315 to $385 for an average 3 bedroom house. And.....

 Fourthly, the carpet has to be re-laid and re-stretched into place. This is the most costly part of the operation at around $445 for an average 3 bedroom house.

 This treatment kills all the existing Carpet Beetle in the carpet and acts as a preventative against future reinfestations for a season.

 Now, part of our job as pest controllers is to help  you try  to prevent Carpet Beetle reinfesting  your carpet. So, as well as killing those that are in your house, we  recommend a surface treatment of insecticide (the Budget treatment) be applied every year to the edges of the carpet to kill the adult Carpet Beetle as it lands on the carpet to lay its eggs. Having this surface treatment applied in spring each year would keep Carpet Beetle at bay and avoid the need to have to go through such a major job in the future.       

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 BUDGET

 This job is much less intensive and is usually recommended as a maintenance treatment to help prevent Carpet Beetles infesting your carpet. Here we need the furniture moved out from the walls so we can treat the surface of the carpet for up to a metre from the edges. 

An average 3 bedroom home would cost about $140 with this method if the furniture had been moved for us (slightly more otherwise). If used yearly after the thorough treatment, it should protect your carpet from one spring to the next.

Trying to use this method to eradicate an existing infestation would not be recommended as both we and other carpet layers have uplifted carpets which have been treated in this manner and found Carpet Beetle larvae alive and well, under the carpet, under the underlay, and under the smoothedge. They are also found under the carpet where there is no sign of damage on the surface of the carpet.

Note:Average 3 bedroom house = 76m2 of carpet eg.

LD = 35, 3 Br = 36, H = 5

Average room is 12m2 

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                           COCKROACHES

 

What type of cockroach are you wanting us to treat? Is it the Gisborne, the German or  just our Native Black Cockroach?

 This is actually quite important as it can determine which of several methods  we would advise  to treat them. The main cockroach we tend to come across is the German Cockroach which is the one that carries diseases and often causes food poisoning. This cockroach  is a fairly small one, light brown, with wings (hidden under the wing covers) and the female often has an egg capsule hanging out her rear end. It’s usually found in kitchens. The native cockroach and the Gisborne Cockroach are both wingless. These two aren’t usually anywhere near the pest the German Cockroach is. They have lines running across their bodies like slaters (or wood lice). The Gisborne Cockroach often has a yellowish or clear  stripe down either side of its body. The Native Black Cockroach is about the same size as the German Cockroach which is much smaller than the Gisborne Cockroach.

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German Cockroach

There are a few different treatments we can use to treat these cockroaches. Some are more thorough and some cause less hassle than others.

 THOROUGH

This takes a lot of work on your behalf before we arrive. You need to empty every cupboard and drawer in your kitchen and pantry. This includes the pot cupboard and the cutlery drawer.

The best place to put all this stuff is usually both on and under the dining table and throw a sheet over the top of it. Some items must stay in the kitchen to be treated though. They are electrical items like cake mixers, coffee makers and microwaves where we often find cockroaches. We have even found them in telephones.

All the drawers and cupboards should then be washed before treatment as you don’t want to be washing these afterwards or you’ll remove the treatment.

Then you need to empty the laundry and bathroom cupboards, the hallway and hot water cupboards, all the wardrobes (throw everything onto the beds).

Then pull all the furniture in the house out from the walls so that we can treat all the ceilings, the walls, the skirtings, every nook and cranny we can find and every where in the kitchen.

We often have to drill small holes out of sight in the toe kicks under the kitchen cupboards so we can pump dry insecticide into the areas there where sprays can’t reach. We also pump dry insecticide into electrical items like the fridge motor and the back of the stove and so on.

If you’ve seen them coming out of holes or cracks in the walls, we might  also have to remove  power points or light fittings in order to treat inside the walls. This costs a bit extra. Likewise when sometimes people have got cockroaches in places where sprays and powders can’t be used, like in video cases, books or computers. What we can do in these situations is to have all these items placed in large plastic rubbish sacks and fill them up with insect gas. Leave them for a day or two in the bags and that’ll kill any insects in there... Or we can apply Gel Bait on or near these items.

There’s to be no pets or people inside for about 4 hours and when you come back inside you will have the job of vacuuming up dead cockroaches, putting everything back into place, and cleaning the food preparation benches before any uncovered food is placed directly onto them.

Don’t wash down any areas that won’t have uncovered food placed on them. That would clean off the treatment which will usually continue to work for several months. That is really important because the treatment doesn’t kill the eggs, so when the eggs hatch you will want the baby cockroaches to walk on a treated surface and get killed.

This is a very thorough treatment which usually shows immediate results. It costs $370.00 around town.

Extras would be: $30 per light fitting or power point you wanted removed for treatment in wall cavity … and $25 per item needing Gel Bait treatment. Insect gas treatment is usually between $100 - $150.

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Average 3 bedroom house =(9 rooms - LD = 3, 3 Br = 3, H & Laundry = 1, K = 1, T & B = 1)

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SEMI - THOROUGH

  We could do a real thorough treatment like I’ve just mentioned but only in the kitchen and dining areas. This could really knock the cockroaches around but there is a possible drawback.

As the cockroaches run away from the poisoned area they are very likely to drop their egg sacks in other parts of the house and so start an infestation elsewhere.

  If you wanted us to treat just the kitchen/dining areas you would have to take the risk of them spreading, yourself. This treatment costs $200.

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NO HASSLE SPRAY TREATMENT

This treatment is usually used for Native Black Cockroaches and for Gisborne Cockroaches that haven’t taken over the kitchen. You don’t have to empty any cupboards or move all the furniture. We will spray treat all the ceilings, walls and skirtings that are accessible without moving furniture around. We don’t treat inside the kitchen cupboards and drawers with this treatment. This would kill most insects crawling over it for at least 3 months under normal conditions.

  This treatment costs $120.00 for inside the house. However, many people want us to treat areas outside the house for these Cockroaches as they are often found in wood piles, tool sheds, under balconies and so on. In these cases we charge extra according to the amount of  extra areas to be treated.

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NO-SPRAY GEL TREATMENT

Gel treatment involves no hassle for you. You won’t have to empty any cupboards and drawers and you don’t have to move all the furniture. You don’t have to get out of the house when we do this treatment. We even treat restaurant kitchens with Gel while the staff are still working in them. Gel treatment kills every cockroach that eats it, every cockroach that eats a poisoned cockroach (they’re cannibals you know) and because they are such dirty creatures that they eat each others faeces, every poisoned faeces that gets eaten will kill the cockroach that eats it. Gel bait lasts for up to a year or until it is all consumed.

   Gel treatment has proven to be very effective on it’s own and has often wiped out cockroach infestations with just one treatment. But this is not always the case. Quite often they need to be treated again after a month.

 This treatment costs $185  per treatment so if you get away with a single treatment it’s more economical than the more thorough treatment. But if you happen to need a repeat treatment then it would cost a bit more.

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GENERAL INFO ON COCKROACHES

The German cockroach is probably the most common cockroach in N.Z. The females may be seen with a light-tan egg capsule protruding from the abdomen. One female may produce between four and eight capsules with 30 to 50 eggs in each.

These insects can spread disease organisms and illnesses such as gastro-enteritis, dysentery, diarrhoea, and food poisoning. They carry disease organisms on their legs and deposit them while they are moving and feeding.

Cockroaches generally hide in areas close to moisture and food. As long as the interior of a building has warmth, moisture, minute food fragments, and hiding places such as tiny cracks, there is a chance of cockroach infestation. Corrugated cardboard for example, provides enough space for cockroaches. Cockroaches are generally nocturnal. If you see stray cockroaches during the day, it suggests that the population is high and that hiding places are overcrowded.

Food sources for cockroaches are more widespread than most people realise. Most species are scavengers, eating starchy materials, sweet substances, and meat based products. They also eat such materials as cheese, leather, bakery products, starch in book bindings, glues, hair, dead animals, and plant remains. Wastes such as beer spillage are also attractive to them. Crumbs of food in a work-desk drawer are enough to feed these pests. Fragments of ice-cream and drops of cordial in theatres are all that is needed to feed a population, especially as it is likely to be added to each day.

Moisture is even more essential to cockroaches than food. Sinks and wash-up areas provide them with water and so kitchens are invariably a focus of infestation. Bathrooms and laundries are other likely areas, although they have been found in bedroom drawers, where they can feed on materials such as organic-based glues. If a complete service is to be performed, all parts of a house may have to be examined and treated.

In order to reduce the risk of cockroach infestation we advise clients to carry out the following steps:

1. Remove all food residues;

2. Eliminate "dead" spaces where any form of organic matter may accumulate;

3. Inspect incoming goods, including their containers etc.;

4. Rotate stock systematically so that no packages remain long enough to become infested;

5. Develop high standards of hygiene;

6. Wash down all food preparation surfaces after use;

7. Allow insecticide 7 - 14 days for complete effect although your treatment will often continue to control insects for many months;

8. Clean up and destroy any egg capsules you may find to prevent reinfestation.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                                  FLEAS

 

There are a couple of methods we have for treating fleas, one is more thorough and the other is the budget method.

 

With both treatments pets and people need to be outside for a few hours.  And  upon returning, the building needs ventilating.

 THOROUGH

This takes a bit of work on your behalf before we arrive. Before we treat a home, all pets should have been de-flead and be using flea collars or similar treatment. Also, it is preferable to have had the carpet cleaned prior to treatment. You need to clear the floor area of books, pot plants, magazine racks & so on, including under beds and in wardrobes.  Normally we treat all floor surfaces inside, including carpet, rugs & skirting boards. We treat wardrobes, under beds & settees, chairs, tables etc. We work the spray down into the carpet fibres. This is much more effective than a spray applied to the surface of the carpet. We also treat  dog kennels, lounge suite, chairs (and bedspreads if requested). This treatment can kill fleas and other insects contacting it for months after application.

 However, most insecticides don’t kill the eggs, so there is the possibility of fleas still hatching for the next 3 weeks. When the pupa has fully developed, it remains dormant until vibrations trigger it to hatch. That’s why people sometimes get fleas jumping all over them when they go into a place that's been empty for a long time, like holiday houses and such. The vibrations basically cause them to hatch, then they will  crawl up through the treated carpet in search of a host.  The flea will then come in contact with the insecticide as it crawls up thru the carpet and will have received a lethal dose and will soon die.  BUT before doing so, it could possibly bite someone or cause embarrassment by its appearance. “Uuugh you got fleas!”

 So, we recommend that, after the treatment has dried, you vacuum daily for 3 weeks to both cause the vibrations that trigger fleas to hatch, and to suck up the fleas, if any. The vacuum bag should be burned to prevent it becoming a breeding site. Another helpful thing to do is to put the off-cut from the flea collar inside the vacuum bag to kill any fleas sucked up. We warranty this job for 3 months.

          The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $185.

Remember, though, that these prices are based on average 3 bedroom houses around town and if your house was bigger than average, the price would naturally be more. Likewise, if your house is out in the country there may be a travel charge if we had to make a special trip to do just the one house.

 (See prices below for cost of extra rooms)

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 BUDGET

 Once again all pets should have been de-flead and be using flea collars or similar treatment. And it is still preferable to have had the carpet cleaned prior to treatment. Here we spray the surface of all walking areas inside without moving furniture or doing under couches etc. and we don’t work the treatment into the carpet fibres like we do with the thorough treatment. This means that there are more safe areas for fleas than with the thorough treatment, but any fleas coming in contact with the insecticide will be dealt to. It’s still a good idea to vacuum daily for 3 weeks after this treatment too.

 The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $115.

 Remember, though, that these prices are based on average 3 bedroom houses around town and if your house was bigger than average, the price would naturally be more. Likewise, if your house is out in the country there may be a travel charge if we had to make a special trip to do just the one house.

 There is no warranty on the budget job.

 FLEA TREATMENT PRICES

Average 3 Bedroom House (around Town)

                   THOROUGH  $185       Extra Bedroom Sized Room   $24                                      

                                    BUDGET          $115       Extra Bedroom Sized Room   $14

 If the customer has larger rooms than an average house then we charge extra.  Price given for this when guys arrive on job.

It works out at approx $2.00 per sq metre for the thorough job and $1.20 m2 for the budget job.

Some peoples idea of an average size house differs. We have gone to someone’s “average size house” to find that their lounge is bigger than some other peoples houses.

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FLEA INFO

Fleas are objectionable because of:

1. The bites they inflict on humans

2. The stigma attached to humans with flea infestations

3. They can spread disease

4. They may transmit parasite worms from animals to humans.

Fleas depend on the blood of mammals and birds for food. Although most are host specific, (cat flea on cat, dog flea on dog etc.) the group of fleas that commonly attack people has a wide host range. The cat flea is the most common flea to attack humans. We also have the European chicken flea, the dog flea and the human flea.

A female can lay several hundred smooth, oval, pearly white eggs which are about 0.5 mm long. These take a few days to hatch into worm-like larvae that feed on all sorts of organic debris, including the faeces of adult fleas. After a week or two, the larvae pupate (similar to a caterpillar going into its cocoon). Adult fleas can emerge 7 - 14 days later, but outside normal circumstances, they can survive up to a year before emerging as an adult. This can happen, for example, when a house that has been unoccupied for some time is occupied again. The vibrations from footsteps trigger the pupating fleas to hatch out. This explains why fleas may be found in abundance in unoccupied houses.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                                 FLIES

 

 There are a couple of methods we have for treating flies, one is more thorough and the other is the budget method.

THOROUGH

Here we treat ceilings and walls down to window-ledge level with a Pyrethroid insecticide which should kill most insects which come in contact with it for up to 12 weeks. We also treat sheltered areas outside around front and back door entrances.

The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $90.00.

Discounts may apply if you arrange a friend or neighbour to be done at the same time.

 Remember, though, that these prices are based on average 3 bedroom houses around town and if your house was bigger than average, or had high ceilings, the price would naturally be more. Likewise, if your house is out in the country there may be a travel charge if we had to make a special trip to do just the one house.

BUDGET

Here we only treat either the ceilings or the walls down to window-ledge level (your choice) and this will still kill most insects coming in contact with it. It can take longer to kill some flies because,  with this method there will be more untreated areas which are safe for them to land on.

The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $65.

 Remember, though, that these prices are based on average 3 bedroom houses around town and if your house was bigger than average, or had high ceilings, the price would naturally be more. Likewise, if your house is out in the country there may be a travel charge if we had to make a special trip to do just the one house. 

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Average 3 Bedroom House (around Town)

(9 bedroom-sized rooms ie - LD = 3, 3 Br = 3, H & Laundry = 1, K = 1, T & B = 1)

An average bedroom is 12 square metres.

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Av. 3 Bedroom House    $90       ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Extra Bedroom Sized Room    $10         ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Single Garage    $25          

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Double Garage    $35           -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  If the customer has higher ceilings than an average house, we charge extra. Price given for this when we arrive on job.

Some peoples idea of an average size house differs. We have gone to someone’s “average size house” to find that their lounge is bigger than some other peoples houses.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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 THINGS YOU (THE CUSTOMER) NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FLY TREATMENTS

 New Zealand is one of the few countries where the weather is usually favourable to the application of contact insecticides inside buildings for controlling flying incects. The heat and humidity in Australia often doesn't allow such treatments, henceforth their use of insect screens on windows and doors for fly control.

 We apply a misted spray treatment of a safe, non-airborne residual pyrethroid insecticide to ceilings and/or walls inside. This is a contact insecticide which should kill most insects that crawl on it. The treatment should last at least 12 weeks under normal circumstances and has even been reported to be effective one year after application. However, there are certain conditions that are known to have an adverse effect on the effectiveness of insecticides. The most common of these being temperature and humidity.  

There are times during the summer months when the temperature and humidity are both high and this can often lessen the effect which the insecticide has on insects. Flies may come into the house and not die anywhere near as quickly as under normal conditions. This is not a fault of either the technician or the insecticide. As soon as temperatures and humidity return to normal, so too should  the effect of the insecticide.

 If a problem was to persist at normal temperature and humidity, it could mean that there is resistance to the particular insecticide in use. That being the case, a top-up treatment with another insecticide should remedy the problem.

 Other causes for loss of effectiveness of insecticides are:

1. Fresh paint has been known to weaken insecticide causing it to need re-spraying within 6 weeks.

2. Chlorine bleach is known to have a drastic effect on insecticides.

3. Cleaning the treated area will remove the treatment.

4. Areas where steam is created will have the treatment broken down much faster e.g. bathrooms and kitchens.

5. Insects that do not land on a treated surface will not be affected because it is a contact insecticide, sand flies are particularly known to hover rather than land.

6. Unrealistic expectations on the part of the consumer. Some people have been led to believe that the insecticide treatment should keep flies out of the house. Fly screens and closed windows keep flies out of houses. With windows wide open  and roast dinner in the oven or a pot of mussels boiling on the stove, there is nothing going to stop a fly coming inside except a good fly screen.

 Preventative measures should always be taken into account with all pest control operations. With this in mind, here are a few things that can be done in and around the house:

1. Destroy breeding sites; Turn compost piles regularly and keep lawns mowed.

2. Keep tight lids on rubbish bins.

3. Ensure all fish and meat scraps are well wrapped and disposed of promptly.

4. Regularly remove  rubbish from the property.

5. Fresh meat should be refrigerated, especially in summer.

6. Consider fitting fly screens, especially if you live in a rural area near horses, sheep or cattle.

7. Carefully dispose of animal wastes from near the property.

8. Wash dogs regularly and keep animals (horses, livestock) as far away as possible from the house.

NOTE:  PETS & PEOPLE SHOULD  BE OUTSIDE FOR FOUR HOURS AFTER TREATMENT.

 GOLDFISH BOWLS MUST BE COVERED. TOWELS AND PILLOW CASES TOO.

 UNWRAPPED FOOD AND TOOTHBRUSHES SHOULD BE PUT AWAY BEFORE TREATMENT

 FOOD PREPARATION BENCHES (AND PLACES WHERE UNWRAPPED FOOD MAY BE PLACED) MUST BE WASHED AFTER TREATMENT AND BEFORE USE.

BUILDING SHOULD BE VENTILATED AFTER TREATMENT.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                                RODENTS

 

Is it rats or mice that you want to eradicate?.......................

This does make a difference because they have different feeding patterns.  If rats find something they like to eat they’re likely to eat enough in one feed to get a lethal dose...................Mice on the other hand, tend to nibble bits here and there  so they may not get a lethal dose from a single feed.  We often use more than one type of poison so they’re more likely to get a lethal dose.

We usually control rodents with either rodenticide powder which kills them as they groom themselves, or with a range of anticoagulant baits. Sometimes we need to use both methods combined, especially if they are in places which are difficult to get at, like in sarked ceilings.

Part of our job as pest controllers is to help  you try  to prevent rodents getting into your place. So, as well as killing those that are in your house, we  usually inspect the place to see if we can find out where they may be getting in and advise how to rat proof the place.

Most often, if a rat has access to your roof, he can get into your ceiling, so we recommend ways to stop them.

If rat proofing is not a viable option, we encourage people to  be set up on a preventative maintenance programme where we set up about half a dozen waterproof bait stations in strategic places around the section. This means that when rats come out of the bush, long grass, or creeks around your place, that they get poisoned outside before they get to set up house inside.

These bait stations need to be topped up regularly. Most of the places that we service get done once a month in passing. If you are able to top up your own regularly that’s fine. But most people don’t get around to servicing their own as they should, being too busy to have to remember, so we could service yours if you wanted us to.

As for costing, the standard rodent treatment starts at $98 (inside the house) + $42 for each extra area (ceiling) (subfloor) and the outside stations are $13 each for tube-style or $35 each for lockable stations, & $60 + gst to set them up and map them. You can also buy bait off us much cheaper than your local hardware as we buy bait in bulk.

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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Will they die inside?

With rats there is a 50/50 chance of them dying either in or outside. Rats need water daily so there is a very real possibility of them dying while they are outside. Mice, on the other hand, can get enough moisture from your Weetbix so they don’t need to go outside. There is a good chance that mice may die inside.

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What about traps?

 Traps only tend to catch the young and the unwary, so poison is the most effective option.

 

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How much does the monthly maintenance top up cost?

Monthly top ups vary in price depending on how much bait is used. We usually charge around $30 to monitor & 60c each for the baits used + GST. (In places that are out of town there would  also be a travel/establishment fee as well).

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Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

 

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                                                            SPIDERS

 

We have a few methods for treating spiders, starting from the budget job and going up to the super thorough job. 

 

A residual contact insecticide is applied to ceilings, walls and other areas where instructed.

 

This pyrethroid treatment has been reported to be effective up to a year after application.

We warrant the treatment for 12 weeks except when temperature and humidity are high as these conditions lessen the effect of insecticides. If temperature and humidity are low and spiders are not dying, it is possible that there is resistance to the insecticide in use. That being the case, we would arrange to re-treat with a different insecticide.

 What To Expect

All spiders in the treated areas to be dead after treatment.

Any spiders coming inside and crawling on the treatment to die for at least 12 weeks after the treatment.

Overspray on windows which you may need to clean off.

What Not To Expect

Spiders to die after 12 weeks from treatment.

Spiders to die during a period when temperature and humidity are high, as this weakens the effect of most insecticides. This is not a fault of either the insecticide or the technician. As soon as temperature and humidity return to normal, so should the effect of the insecticide.

Spiders to die where the treatment is applied over fresh paint which weakens insecticide.

Spiders to die where chlorine bleach has been used on the treated surface.

Spiders to die where the treated area is cleaned after treatment.

Spiders to die in areas where steam is created e.g. bathrooms and kitchens.

Spiders to die that have not come in contact with the insecticide, hence it is important to treat spiders before removing their webs. Otherwise they could create a fresh web over a treated surface and never get to come in contact with the insecticide.

Pre and Post-Treatment You Need to do Inside

Leave all cobwebs in place before treatment to let spiders crawl on a treated web.

Place all food and cooking utensils inside cupboards or cover them to avoid overspray.

Place toothbrushes inside cupboards.

Cover pillow cases.

Ensure goldfish are covered and that pets and people are outside for the time discussed.

Wash down food benches and dining tables after treatment and before use.

Dry brush webs away a couple of days after treatment.

Contact us if any webs re-appear within a couple of days of being removed.

 

 CEILINGS, WALLS AND WINDOW FRAMES (INSIDE)

The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $90.

 

 CEILINGS, WALLS, WINDOW FRAMES AND SKIRTINGS (INSIDE)

The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $120.

Remember, though, that these prices are based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and if your house was bigger than average, or had high ceilings, the price would naturally be more. Likewise, if your house is out in the country there may be a travel charge if we had to make a special trip to do just the one house.

Average 3 bedroom house =(9 rooms - LD = 3, 3 Br = 3, H & Laundry = 1, K = 1, T & B = 1)

 

    WINDOW & DOOR CRACK  AND CREVICE TREATMENT

This treatment is usually an “add on” to one of the other treatments. So often over the years, even after having treated both inside and outside walls, we have found that spiders still get to beat the system when they live in the crack and crevice areas formed when you close your windows and doors. Around the hinges and so on. We can, for $3 an average size window or door, open each window and door and treat surfaces which wouldn’t get treated where the windows are normally closed. 

 

BUDGET SPIDERS

 Here we only treat the areas where the ceilings and the walls meet. This will kill most insects coming in contact with it but it leaves large areas untreated where spiders could become reestablished.

The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $70.

     

    THOROUGH INSIDE  

Here we treat ceilings, walls, window frames, skirtings, wardrobes, hallway cupboards, behind and under fixtures and fittings (TV, Stereo, couches, beds, and other furniture).

The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $200.00.

WHITETAILS

Whitetail treatment needs to be a far more comprehensive job than ordinary spider treatments. They don’t have a web as they are nomadic hunters and don’t stay in one place like most spiders. They actually hunt spiders so they are continually on the move and they get into the oddest of places. People have been bitten by Whitetails that were on their clothes in the wardrobe.

So we have to treat every nook and cranny to have any sort of chance to control them. Here we treat ceilings, walls, window frames, skirtings, wardrobes, hallway cupboards, kitchen and laundry cupboards, behind and under fixtures and fittings (TV, Stereo, couches, beds, and other furniture). We also treat the carpet and all floor surfaces.

Treating these creatures takes a lot of preparation work before we actually treat the problem.

You need to empty every cupboard and drawer in the kitchen and pantry. This includes the pot cupboard and the cutlery drawer.The best place to put all this stuff is usually both on and under the dining table and throw a sheet over the top of it.

Then you need to empty the laundry and bathroom cupboards, the hallway and hot water cupboards, all the wardrobes (throw everything onto the beds).

Then pull all the furniture in the house out from the walls so that we can treat behind them.

There’s to be no pets or people inside for about 4 hours and when you come back inside you will have the job of putting everything back into place, and cleaning the food preparation benches before any uncovered food is placed directly onto them.

Don’t wash down any areas that won’t have uncovered food placed on them. That would clean off the treatment which will usually continue to work for several months.

 The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $370.00.

 GO TO NOTE ON WINDOW & DOOR CRACK  AND CREVICE TREATMENT

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    SPIDERS -OUTSIDE

A residual contact insecticide (with a waterproofing and u-v blocking additive) is applied to problem areas as instructed.

As this treatment is exposed to the elements its potency becomes less effective quicker than the inside treatment.

We do not warranty this treatment. Instead, we usually make an appointment to return and re-spray any webs that have been replaced within a couple of days after being removed. The webs should have been removed within a week of treatment.

 

What To Expect

Spiders to die within a week from treatment.

Overspray on your windows which will need cleaning off as soon as possible.

 

What Not To Expect

Spiders to die for months after treatment.

Spiders to die where the treatment is applied over fresh paint which weakens insecticide.

Spiders to die where chlorine bleach has been used on the treated surface.

Spiders to die where the treated area is cleaned after treatment.

Spiders to die that have not come in contact with the insecticide, hence it is important to treat spiders before removing their webs. Otherwise they could create a fresh web over a treated surface and never get to come in contact with the insecticide.

 

Pre and Post-Treatment You Need to do

Leave all cobwebs in place before treatment to let spiders crawl on a treated web.

Ensure goldfish are covered.

Clean windows after treatment, leaving the treatment on the window frames.

Dry brush webs away a couple of days after treatment. They shouldn’t be washed off as that would help break down the insecticide.

Contact us if any webs re-appear within a couple of days of being removed. We will arrange an appointment to re-treat these areas, provided you have contacted us within 2 weeks of the treatment.

Consider our maintenance programs where we treat affected areas more regularly to help keep spiders under control.

 

(EVES & WINDOW FRAMES)

 The cost of this treatment is based on an average 3 bedroom house around town and is $65.00 - $100.00.

(depends on the number of windows and the width of the eves).

 Remember, though, that these prices are based on average 3 bedroom houses around town and if your house was bigger than average, or had high walls or wide eves, the price would naturally be more. Likewise, if your house is out in the country there may be a travel charge if we had to make a special trip to do just the one house.

(EVES, WALLS & WINDOW FRAMES)

 As above plus the walls $100.00 - $130.00 for an average single storey house  (it works out at 63c to $1.26 per sq metre).*

Balconies, roofs, under house etc. wider eves, balconies, roofs, under house etc is between 63c and $1.26 per sq metre*.

  *     63c is for flat surfaces like walls and $1.26 is for areas like under houses and decks where there is timber that needs both sides of it spraying.

GO TO NOTE ON WINDOW & DOOR CRACK  AND CREVICE TREATMENT

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 Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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                                                               WASPS

 Is the German or Waikato wasp or the Paper Wasp you want to exterminate?

Paper Wasps make a very small nest which is hardly ever any bigger than a tea cup. They usually have them under eves, on balconies, on tile roofs, or in trees. 

 

The Australian Paper Wasp is reddish brown and is often called a hornet by some people.

 

 

The Asian Paper Wasp is black with yellow stripes and long legs.

 If we can treat these while we are doing other work in your area we charge $48 for the first nest and $18 for each other nest we treat while on site. Unless they are in hard to get to places, in which case we would charge extra. If you are out of town and we have to make a special trip to do the job, we would charge kilometres and travel time also.

 German or Common Wasps usually make their nests in the ground, in banks, in tree trunks or in walls and ceilings of houses. These wasps make very large nests and are very aggressive. They are about the same size and shape as a bee but are a brighter yellow with very distinct black stripes.

 We charge $100 to exterminate an average nest, more if it is in a very difficult place to access or if it is extra large. If you are out of town and we have to make a special trip to do the job, we would charge vehicle expenses and travel time also.

Phone Larry on 027 492 7035

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